Technology enabled pattern construction to support traditional Saudi garments (Sawwan) in modern production

Abstract

This research synthesises traditional Saudi pattern drafting methods with the functionality of modern technology to scan the human form and efficiently produce well-fitted garments. Traditional Saudi pattern construction methods are relatively unstructured in comparison to modern flat drafting methods and there is a need to better understand the evolution of patternmaking in the Saudi context and the way in which this affects the ability to integrate aspects of the Sawwan in current designs. The way in which patterns are drafted through popular systematic methods is relatively straightforward in comparison to traditional ‘craft’ methods which require personal engagement with the individual who is to wear the item of clothing being produced. This project applied technological solutions to develop traditional Saudi Sawwan pattern drafting and designs to be integrated into current and future clothing offerings. As a result, this study added to the field of knowledge by utilising body scanning technologies to improve traditional pattern creation. This novel approach makes it possible to create customised Sawwan garment patterns and increases the selection of clothing available to clients, thereby supporting traditional styles that are also functional for daily use by contemporary women who want to maintain traditional stylistic features. Consideration was given to how the body defines the drafting method and traditional panel design. Consequently, the research utilised various experimental approaches to expand theoretical knowledge and practical knowledge to achieve the study’s aims. To address the research problem, a mixed methodology was applied within the philosophy of pragmatism. By utilising a mixed-methods approach, both quantitative and qualitative data were acquired including questionnaire responses, a literature review, interviews, observations and a case study. Traditional Saudi clothing designs undergo an evolution in this research with the help of Computer-Aided Design (CADLectra Modrais) and 3- D body scanning (3DBS -Size Stream). Recommendations are made to ensure that the use of modern technology-supported methods enable garments to be produced that offer the wearer functional benefits as well as a much-improved individual fit whilst maintaining the integrity of the indigenous traditional design. As such, the latest technology is employed to improve the design and manufacture of traditional garments from Saudi Arabia. Care is exercised to sensitively introduce traditional Saudi designs, thereby respecting the country’s culture and ensuring that the approach is feasible in light of the patternmaking methods applied. By utilising CAD and 3DBS, it is possible to improve upon traditional approaches for creating patterns so that the human form is better contextualised whilst retaining the appearance and features of the original design. 3DBS provides the opportunity to better situate the body and engineer the garment outcome for the wearer. Moreover, body scanners capture measurements that are not possible using traditional methods, thereby creating new opportunities in terms of drafting.